Janet Frame on London

Janet Frame

“All writers — all beings — are exiles as a matter of course.  The certainty about living is that it is a succession of expulsions of whatever carries the life force…All writers are exiles wherever they live and their work is a lifelong journey towards the lost land…”

I have finished reading Janet Frame’s intimate Autobiography.  It is one of those books that on completion feels like a parting. I read the passages of her time in London with special attention.  Would she have advice for me? What light would be shown on this in-between place I inhabit as an immigrant writer?

On arriving she was surprised to find no circus in Picadilly; she was that green.  Looking back, so was I, thinking that I could with force of will and warmth, make this place mine.  I used to feel it calling to me, like a two syllable bell: Lon-don.  Now, I’ve traversed it, learning it like one learns a foreign language, through repetition and immersion.

“During those early weeks in keenest anticipation, I made other long bus journeys to places with haunting names– Ponders End, High Wycombe, Mortlake, Shepherds Bush, Swiss Cottage, each time arriving at a cluster of dreary-looking buildings set in a waste of concrete and brick and full of people who appeared to be pale, worried and smaller in build than most New Zealanders.”

Such are the mundane disappointments of London– an ugly, grey place where most people seem very unhappy, no matter what spin you want to put on it.  English people often ask me why I would move here from a seeming paradise like California.  My usual answer, that there is more to life than weather, is short hand for something else.  Loving London is a challenge which involves looking harder. It defies explanation.  I thought I would be free here, and, in many ways I am.

“Looking down at London, I could see the accumulation of artistic weavings, and feel that there could be a time when the carpet became a web or shroud and other times a warm blanket or shawl: the prospect for burial by entrapment or warmth was close. “

This is the paradox of an overly-mediated place. So many have rendered it that your own claim remains anonymous if no less real.

The invisibility London affords can initially be liberating.  People are as common as rats;  you can indeed do anything here because no one will remember you.  I often think of leaving London.  It is so impossible–  expense,  callous and everyone leaves, don’t they? When feeling self-indulgent I wonder if I would be missed.  I imagine certain streets and buildings, small corners I’ve memorized, would momentarily hold a recognition of my absence.

Frame spent years in London and in the end needed to ask someone to come and see her off, claiming her only family there was the city itself.  She returned to her native New Zealand where the “sea and sky still echoed with their first voice while the earliest works of art uttered their response, in a primary dialogue with the Gods.”

I envy her this prelapsarian home.

The Desperate Ones, now available

My novel, The Desperate Ones, is now available from Lulu.com in paperback and as a free download. The book uses certain elements of London geography in a warped, speculative sort of way. Londoners will no doubt recognize parts of their city in the shadows of the novel.

The book’s website can be found here: desperateones.net

The cover was designed and illustrated by the illustrious Patrick Farley.

The Yggdrasil of Surrey

The Crowhurst Yew

The Crowhurst Yew

Most places worth visiting in Britain you won’t find in a guidebook but through word of mouth.  Beverley Angel, a modern Tatiana, mentioned a hot woodland tip as we sat next to each other in the Elsinore pub in Whitby: there’s an ancient tree in Surrey where one could have a dinner party–inside–and it’s right off the M25.

The 4,000 year old Crowhurst yew, complete with fey door in the side, is the locale of many a childhood fantasy, a physical manifestation of the collective subconscious.  Despite arguments that most ancient yews in Britain are in fact medieval, the tree seems to live forever, its bark molten with anthropomorphic parts: the faces, arms and hands of creatures that are born and die, echoed in the graves which the poisonous branches shelter.

A yew-fairy/crone silhouetted in the trunk of the tree

A yew-fairy/crone silhouetted in the trunk of the tree

One would have to work hard to deny the suggestion of spirits, fairies and ancestors there.

The Yew is a symbol of the mythological world tree, rooting two worlds to each other. It’s the tree of the emigrant, the immigrant, the in-between-one.  It doesn’t matter how old the tree literally is, or whether the stories it suggests are factual.  It is doing  allegorical work in real time, in a real place.

Image from 1875

Image from 1875

Many Christian churches in England have been built on sacred pagan sites.  Some say the church intended to siphon the energy of these places or contradict their power.  The 12th Century St. George’s church and surrounding graveyard belongs to the yew now, and serves as a metaphor for this island as I’ve found it: the Christian history dominating a pagan past that is so strong it can’t be subsumed, and in many ways the two live side by side in a mysterious alliance.  The sprouted staff of the pilgrim saint is also the neo-pagan ogham wand.

No one can prove the age of this tree yet–written records don’t go back far enough and the insides of yews fall alway as the tree ages, leaving no rings to cout.  The wooden eyes of this giant, older than history, will keep its secrets.

The gathering of the Elder Goths

Right over the town is the ruin of Whitby Abbey, which was sacked by the Danes…It is a most noble ruin, of immense size, and full of beautiful and romantic bits; there is a legend that a white lady is seen in one of the windows.  Between it and the town there is another church, the parish one, round which is a big graveyard all full of tombstones. This, to my mind, is the nicest spot in Whitby…

– Mina Harker in Bram Stoker’s Dracula.

Whitby, cliff-side graves with Abbey in the distance.

Whitby, cliff-side graves with Abbey in the distance.

When I said I don’t go on literary pilgrimages, I lied.  Since moving to the UK I have gone to Whitby almost every year, and have read Stoker’s Dracula numerous times.  It loses none of its uncanny terror and strangeness in multiple readings, despite the countless films and derivative fictions which threaten to steal its undead soul.  Part of this fortitude must be due to the novel’s structural rigor and the Stoker’s wonder at the clash of new technology and superstition or folklore which remains fresh and relevant over a hundred years later.

I have yet to find Lucy and Mina’s favourite “seat”– the grave of a suicide– though this is what I would most like to discover.  I have avoided any of the touristy “Dracula” tours and “Experiences”, hoping one day the “real thing” or some suitably fictional inspiration will make itself known to me.

I go every year for the Gothic Festival, where the pubs in town welcome the goths with Halloween decorations and pints of cider & black.  All the charity shops do up their window mannequins in tarty stretch velvet and fishnets, and put out special rails of black clothing.

The goth weekend has little to do with any literary pilgrimage.  Goths have gathered en masse here twice a year for a decade and a half now.  It’s more fancy dress than rock and roll, which is curious coming from the West Coast of the US, where the worst thing ever is to appear costumed or pretentious in any way.  Many goths that show up will claim to have been coming since the good old days when it was just a pub meet at the Elsinore, shortened to “The Elsi,” the facade of which is festooned with a banner that reads “Home of the Goths.”

In many ways Whitby does feel like home, this place where Dracula arrives on a ghost ship with a corpse tied to its helm.  It must be that the town owns a great deal of its notoriety to an infamous immigrant– Count Dracula.  All the locals are quite welcoming to the goths who often challenge modest rural norms with their sartorial choices. Everyone wants to know how far you have come to visit, as a point of pride.

The winding streets and cobbled alleyways are especially captivating at night.  Unlike Dracula‘s London locales, Whitby almost feels pristine. One can climb the countless steps up to the abbey, just as Mina might have, to witness the graves all blankly staring out to sea, the only sound the wind hissing through the grass.  The star-pricked sky above merges with the black sea in one great, silent mystery… full of the somnambulists and changelings of an aging sub-culture.

This Election Business

Seattle stencil from Elena777 on flickr

Seattle stencil from Elena777 on flickr

Though most of the free world is currently biting their nails, waiting for the results of the election, some people remain (blissfully?) unaware. Take my co-worker who gets most of her information from the Daily Mail and the Metro.  Today she turned to me and in her heavy South (Sowff) London accent she asked, “This election business–”

“Yes?” I was eager to talk about something besides her obsessions with real estate and immigrant swindlers.

“What is it for?  Is it for the President?  Or is it for whoever will replace Bush?”

“Um, yeah.”

“Why doesn’t Bush run again?  Is he tired of it?”

“Bush can only be president for 8 years.” I mumbled, I’m tired of it.

“Who is Bush then, Obama or McCain?”  I think she was asking who was the Republican– thinking that the successor would be appointed like in the UK.

And here was my dilemma– explain the electoral process in a soundbite between her surfing the Home Buyers bulletins, or make it simple?

“McCain shares Bush’s policies, though he says he doesn’t.”

“Right then.”

And I went back to processing the perversity of bankers’ expense accounts, and to my reverie: imagining waking up tomorrow to a world that just got a bit better, a world where you could say you were American without cringing, where decades of racial struggle have come to joyful fruition, where the antiwar movement I sweated and cried over becomes vindicatied.  That kind of morning.

Coat me in fat, wrap me in felt and call me done.

Sophie Calle, the Letter "B"

Sophie Calle, the Letter

When work gets particularly alienating, as it’s bound to do when you work for an investment banking firm in the middle of a massive economic meltdown, it’s good to get away.  Far away.  Like, across the river.  I usually go to the Tate with something in mind, like visiting the Joseph Beuys’ room, which always comforts.  The erotic power his Felt Suit has over me is a mystery– and I’d like to keep it that way.  And, when you’ve been scanning expense reports until your eyes water, what better antidote than to gaze at the fine mess of his Fat Battery? It’s the poetry of survival, and even if my current rat race existence seems far removed from any sort of myth making, it still pushes all my buttons.

Today I stumbled upon Sophie Calle’s Hotel Room series.  Calle’s sexual, voyeuristic work predates Tracy Emin’s and far surpasses it in depth, humor and poetry.  In her Hotel Room series from the 80s, she worked as a chambermaid in a Venetian hotel where she photographed people’s belongings as she cleaned the rooms.  She then took notes on her findings and they become vingettes of voyueristic transgression, of human frailty and the mystery of private lives.  She records the used towels, the slippers, the half-finished crosswords, wigs, tablets, carnival masks, and in recording she becomes almost a fictional character, an embittered, compassionate trickster figure.

When I was younger, I worked as a maid, cleaning the houses of the wealthy in San Francisco’s Nob Hill and Pacific Heights, and looking at Calle’s work brought back visceral memories of being an intimate stranger.  Calle puts on the perfume she finds in women’s luggage and in one case, steals a pair of shoes that fit her.  Reading that, I had goosebumps.  I wished I’d written it.

Cynics Abroad

Today as my workmates surfed the net they discovered the Palin doll, an action figure based on McCain’s VP running mate. They looked to me to explain this, being the token American.

One of my younger workmates heartbreakingly asked, “You mean Obama might lose?”

How could I explain that this Palin, who could be a character out of the Simpsons– a corrupt, lying, moose-hunting, polar bear and wolf hating, anti-choice, creationist freak has actually tipped the balance of the race in McCain’s favour?

Who are the people who would now vote for McCain because this nut job is on the ticket? Who are the people yelling Drill, Baby, Drill during her acceptance speech at the Republican convention?  How can I explain  that I have never met these Americans.  They are not my friends nor family.  They must exist but they might as well be another country. Reading the coverage of the race has brought up all the old feelings of dread and frustration at my country which I no longer call home, a country I stopped believing in years ago.

Reading coverage of the election in the British press is refreshing.  There is a depth and breadth of coverage denied the American people who are only reading and viewing mainstream sources. Unlike American coverage that sees the electoral mudslinging as entertainment, the British media actually discusses the candidates in terms of policies and political records.  It was impossible to explain to these British co-workers that the election, in the American psychic landscape, is a battle of emotional manipulation, of branding and fear-mongering: something the Republicans know how to do better than anyone.

As we all sat looking at the Sarah Palin doll, another workmate, an obsessive autograph hunter, came to take a look.  He didn’t know who she was but he hummed lasciviously, apparently liking the look of the “school girl” Palin doll.  When we explained to him that she might be the next president of the US, given that McCain, if elected, could very well die in office of his heart condition or reoccurring cancer.   He had another look and whistled, “But can you imagine if she signed that?”

Yeah, now you’re getting it.

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Where the Heart is

Part of the condition of the immigrant means the heart is in two places at once. Homesickness isn’t the right word for it, because were is home?

Today, after a friend sent me the amazing headline that the California Supreme Court has essentially legalized gay marriage I feel, well, homesick.

I used to live in San Fransisco before the dot-com boom pushed out most of people like myself living hand-to-mouth. Years ago I went back and visited San Francisco briefly during that moment when numerous gay couples were getting married to push the political envelope. City Hall was an OTT mass wedding centre and the whole city had this glow– more than it’s usual tender lighting– as if everyone was just a little in love.

I can only imagine the street parties going down there now. How I wish I was there. Cali, I love you.